From ancient artefacts to modern art, Qurans to carpets, Tehran is home to the best of Iran's museums and galleries. And though it doesn't have the long, illustrious history of Isfahan or Shiraz, Tehran is where to discover more about Iran's 20th century upheavals, from the tarnished grandeur of the Pahlavi palaces to the countless fading murals in praise of Khomeini and the Iraq War martyrs.
But history also demands that life goes on. As Tehran's wealthy increasingly look west for cultural leads, ever-widening cultural divisions make walking the city streets a study in social distinctions.
Western brands stamp their mark on the wealthy north of the city with increasing swagger, while, in the south, the impressive, labyrinthine Bazar-e Bozorg (Big Bazaar) continues to heave in and dish out vast quantities of gold, silver, spices, carpets, textiles and Chinese-made consumer goods of dubious quality. Uptown girls let their headscarves drift back over boutique hairdos - a petty but pertinent sign that Islamic restrictions are not to everyone's taste. At the same time chador-wearing women make their own unmistakable statement.
Be sure though to take a Friday walk in Tehran's northern suburbs, where paths leading into the mountains are trod by one and all. In Darakeh, the sense of relief is tangible as Tehranis kick off their shoes to cool hiked-out feet in the cold mountain stream. At Tochal the cable car takes skiers to pistes no more than 30 minutes away from the centre of town.

Azadi Tower
This distinctively shaped arch is situated in the western part of Tehran near Mehrabat International Airport.
The word Azadi means national independence and it was completed in 1971 for the celebrations given by Mohammad Reza Shah to commemorate 2,500 years of Iranian Kings.
The 3 floor, 45m high monument is constructed from large 25,000 granite blocks from Hamedan province. Almost 15,000 differently shaped blocks were used to create the unique shape of the Azadi Tower.
Though modern in style, the design incorporates both pre and post-Islamic architectural styles. The 21m high archway is representative of the pre-Islamic Sassanid period while it is also pointed to represent hands raised in prayer.
Four elevators and two staircases (286 stairs) take you to the top of the tower from where you can see extensive views of Tehran. In the basement is a museum divided into two rooms.
The first contains pottery and glassware from prehistoric through to Islamic Iran as well as bronze artefacts dating back to the 1st and 2nd centuries BC excavated from Lurestan. The second room contains photographs and models depicted traditional life from different parts of Iran.

National Jewels Museum
Located in the basement of the National Bank of Iran on Ferdosi Avenue, in front of the embassies of Germany and Turkey, this is one of the best known museums in Iran. On display is an impressive collection of some of the most famous and spectacular jewels in the world including many priceless pieces.
Many pieces have disappeared over the years but the remaining collection of gemstones, jewellery, royal emblems, ornamental guns and jewel-encrusted furniture is still impressive. The majority of the items on display were given to Safavid kings as gifts but many pieces taken by Nader Shah on his conquest of India are also exhibited. These include the Darya-e Nur diamond, The Peacock Throne and the Jeweled Globe. Other pieces include the crowns of the Qajar and Pahlavi Kings.

Statue, National Museum of Iran, Tehran
Opened in 1937, the National Museum was Iran's very first museum. To this day it houses Irans foremost collection of archaeological and cultural treasures. The main entrance is on Tir Street but it can also be entered from Shahid ra Jai Street.
The museum was designed (and until 1960, also curated) by the French archaeologist and architect Andre Godard. The two-floor building was built to resemble the palace of Ardeshir I in Firuzabad and the red brick entranceway and dome are reminiscent of the Sassanid and Arsakid styles.
The main building houses a collection of artefacts from prehistoric Iran to the end of the Sassanid period, including pottery dating from before 1000BC, Elamite artefacts discovered at Susa and Chogha Zambil and a wealth of Achaemenid period decorations from Persepolis. A copy of the stela carved with Hammurabi's Laws serves as a reminder that the original, now in the Louvre, was discovered in Iran.
An extension built in 1997 houses treasures from the early years of the Islamic era to the present. At the heart of the collection are handwritten copies of the Holy Quran displayed in an atmosphere of quiet reverence and spirituality along with other complementary elements of a mosque, such as an altar prayer chamber.
Other handwritten books include the poetic works of Ferdowsi, Nezami Sadi and Hafez. The uppers floors of the building chart the flourishing of Iranian art in fields such as pottery, glassware, miniature painting, carpets, metal engravings and calligraphy.

The Golestan Palace in Tehran
Located on Khordad Square, the Golestan Palace ("Palace of Flowers") is a collection of buildings set in a walled park veined with canals rushing down from the Tochal mountains. It stands on the site of the historic Arg (citadel) of Tehran which was originally built in the time of Shah Abbas (r. 1588-1629) of the Safavid dynasty.
The Arg became the official royal residence when Agha Mohammad Khan Qajar moved the capital of Iran to Tehran and further palace buildings were constructed during the reign of Karim Khan Zand (r. 1750-1779). Buildings commissioned by Naser Al-din Shah (r. 1848-1896), such as the Shams-ol-Emaneh ("Edifice of the Sun") and the Emarat-e Badgir ("Building of the Wind Towers") show traces of a European architectural style that the modernising king was influenced by on his travels.
The splendour of the interiors of many of the buildings evokes a time when foreign dignitaries were invited to the Qajar court and compared its artistry to the royal buildings of Europe. Both the Eyvan-e Takht-e Marmar ("Terrace of the Marble Throne") and the Talar-e Aineh ("Hall of Mirrors") are famous for the spectacular mirror work that covers their walls.
Elsewhere can be seen fine examples of Iranian stained glass, mosaic tiles and painting. Several buildings house collections of paintings and gifts given to Qajar kings by European dignitaries as well as paintings by Iranian masters.
Though not all of the buildings are open to the public, the park itself is an oasis of calm in the heart of the city.
Jomeh Bazaar (Friday Market)
Tehran's Jomeh Bazaar (Friday Market) has a huge variety of bric-a-brac on display. The Friday Market is held on three floors of a multi-storey car park in central Tehran, on the east side of Joumbouri Avenue. The flea market is open every Friday from around 9am to 4pm.

Tree of Life Motif Carpet, Carpet Museum, Tehran
Not far from the Museum of Contemporary Art and also adjacent to Laleh Park, the Carpet Museum of Iran is one of the most rewarding to visit of Tehran's many museums. Most of the more than 100 carpets on display are from the 19th or 20th centuries but there are a handful of older specimens from as far back as the 16th century.
Photography is permitted though use of flash is not. Hunting and wildlife scenes show off the carpet makers art to the greatest extent.
Corner of Fatemi Street and Kargar Avenue; Admission fee
Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art - Laleh Park
On the west side the very lovely Laleh Park is a low-lying dun-brick building functioning as Tehran's most important museum of contemporary art.

Exhibit at the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art
In the construction itself you see something of the struggle in all Iranian art to reconcile the traditional with the modern. First notice the skylights raised from the roof. Reminiscent of the "badgirs" of Yazd or Kashan, these allow the harsh sun to softly light the central sunken well of inner space itself a modern interpretation of the cool underground havens of desert city residences.
Labyrinthine corridors spin off the central hall and guide you through the history of modern Iranian art. There are many fine pieces and some deep, absurdly comfortable armchairs from which to view them from.
Kargar Avenue; Admission fee
Reza Abbasi Museum - Shariati street
Saad Abad Palace Complex
Niavaran Palace Museum

Accommodation in Tehran
Tehran, as befits the capital of Iran is well served with accommodation options to suit all budgets from five star luxury properties to more budget small hotels.
Top of the range four and five hotels in Tehran include the Espinas Hotel, the Tehran Grand Hotel, with spa, sauna and in-house restaurant, the Ferdowsi International Grand Hotel offering flat-screen TV in all rooms and a restaurant, the Asareh Hotel with fitness center, sauna and free Wifi throughout and the Melal Apartment Hotel. The Tajmahal Hotel Tehran is another five star option with a fitness center, sauna, satellite TV and restaurant.
More budget hotels include the Iran Motel (breakfast included), the Sepand Hotel with airport shuttle, and the three star Karoon Hotel. The Hally Hotel is a 3 star business hotel with continental or buffet breakfast.

Tabriz is the capital of East Azerbaijan province, in the Azerbaijan region of Iran. It is a modern industrialized Iranian city with signs of civilization dating back 2,500 years. Having some of most famous museums, holding some of the cultural events, and harboring a couple of the most prestigious Iranian universities, the city is considered a major hub for science and culture in Iran. Tabriz was named by the Organization of Islamic Conference as the "city of the Islamic world tourism" for 2018. Attraction's in Tabriz :
With a very rich history, Tabriz used to house many historical monuments. Unfortunately, many of them were destroyed in repeated invasions and attacks of foreign forces, negligence of the ruling governments, and natural disasters such as earthquakes and floods. What remains now mostly dates back to the Ilkhanids, the Safavids, and the Qajars. Some of the monuments are unrivaled masterpieces of architecture. The Shahrdari Square is the center of the town, on the south-west of which stands the imposing edifice of Municipality. The railway station (5 km from the center of the town) is at the western edge of the town. The Quri Chai river runs through Tabriz, and most places of interest to the visitor are to the south of this river and alone or north of Imam Khomeini Avenue.
1 Saat Tower, Saat Sq., Emam Ave.. Saat Tower is the symbol of Tabriz. It was used as the main office of the city municipality. Nowadays it is the cite for the Municipality Museum which displays pictures and items from Tabriz' history (in the basement), and it also displays carpet family (in first floor). None of the museums is signposted. Free.
2 El Goli (locals call it Shah Goli), Shahgoli Blvd. (South east of Tabriz). It is a pool and a building in the middle of the poor. It used to be the summer palace for rulers or the king who ruled in Tabriz. Nowadays it is considered a suburban park with a square artificial pond. In the center, a small hall is on an island and hosts a restaurant. Very nice for eating some tchelokebab or sip some tea while enjoying the freshness of the park in summer.
3 Blue Mosque (Goy Machid), Near to Mansur St., Emam Ave (City Center, close to Saat Tower). 09:00-16:00. Built in 1465, this mosque was famous because of its blue tiles. It was severely damaged in an earthquake in 1778, leaving only the entrance Iwan. It was reconstructed in 1970s by the Iranian Ministry of Culture. Inside of the mosque was tiled with superb blue ceramic many of them destroyed during the earthquake. During reconstruction which is still in progress many of the missing parts replaced by painting instead of tiles. Some of the original tiles are the entrance. 150,000 rials.
4 Bazaar of Tabriz, Rasteh-Kucheh (City center). One of the oldest bazaars of the Middle East and the largest covered bazaar in the world. It was inscribed as World Heritage Site by UNESCO in July 2010. The bazaar is still alive and considered one of the major shopping and commerce center in Tabriz. Tabriz has been a place of cultural exchange since antiquity and its historic bazaar complex is one of the most important commercial centers on the Silk Road. Located in the center of the city of Tabriz, Iran. Bazar consists of several sub-units called Bazarche (sub-Bazar) each of which devoted to trade and shopping of specified goods. The most famous Bazarches are Amir Bazaar (for gold and jewelry) and Mozzafarieh (a carpet bazaar). Although, numerous modern shops and malls have been established nowadays, the bazaar of Tabriz has remained economic heart of both the city and northwestern of Iran.
5 Ark-e-Alishah (Ark Citadel), Serah Taleqani, Emam Ave (City Center, close to Saat Tower.). During the Friday prayers there might be some restrictions for visitors.. It is a 28-meter wall which is the remnants of Tabriz city citadel and city wall. Ark construction was aimed to make a big mosque in the 13th century; however, the construction was never completed and a devastating earthquake ruined much of it except the main wall of the mihrab, which is still standing today. In later years this wall used as part of the city wall and the main part of fortress of Tabriz until end of Qdjar dynasty. During the wars of Safavid-Ottoman, and Perso-Russian wars this fortress was always one of the major Strong holds of Iranian troops. In early 20th century the constitutional revolutionists used the ark citadel as their military base in Tabriz. At the collapse of Autonomous Government of Azerbaijan Ark was the latest resistance of their troops against Iranian army. The surrounding area of Ark has been used to build another big mosque for Friday prayers.
6 Constitution house, Rasteh Koucheh (Close to Bazaar). It is a house retracing the story of the Iranian constitutional revolution in the early 20th century. Quite well documented and well kept, although few English translations are available. The edifice is located next to the Tabriz grand bazaar, on Motahari Ave. During the years leading up to the Constitutional Revolution and afterwards, the house was used as the gathering place of the leaders, activists, and the sympathizers of the movement, among them Sattar Khan, Baqer Khan, Seqat ol-Eslam and Haji Mirza AqaFarshi. The two-story building was constructed in 1868 by Haj Vali Me'mar-e Tabrizi. It has numerous rooms and halls. The most beautiful parts of the house are a skylight and a corridor decorated with colorful glasses and mirrors. The museum is interesting only for visitors with advanced knowledge of Iran's history and the Consitutional Revolution in particular.
7 Azerbaijan Museum, Emam Ave. (Next to Blue Mosque, very close to Saat Tower). This is the major archaeological museum in North-West of Iran. The museum includes the archaeological discoveries in Azerbaijan region. It has three galleries: Pre-Islamic History, Islamic History, and Coins. It also has a gallery for new sculptures in the basement and a yard for the stone sculptures. But poorly kept: very few translations and erratic classification make the trip inside the numerous dynasties intricate for first timers. edit
8 Maghbarat-o-Shoara, Seqat-ol-eslam St.. Is a grave yard and a memorial for the poets and famous writer who lived in the city. The most recent poet who buried here is Azerbaijan poet Shahriyar.
Maghbarato-Shoara (Poets' Tomb).
9 East Azerbaijan State Palace, Shohada Sq. (Close to Bazar). It is state palace and main office of East Azerbaijan Province governorship. This used to be the site for the residence palace and office building of the governor or crown prince of Iran and his office since 1500s. The palace and complex were destroyed in a major flood during 1930s when the current state palace built. The cite also include the Azerbaijan Governorship Museum. edit
10 Fire Fighting Tower, Khaqani St. (located in the yard of fire fighting station.). This used to be part of fire fighting services for the city of Tabriz, for monitoring of any sign of fire around the city. In case of fire, the watchman would inform the fire fighters with the directions of fire. Nowadays only the tower is kept in its original construction while a modern fire fighting station was built next to the tower.
11 Jomeh Mosque, Rasteh Koucheh (Next to Bazaar). This is a large, congregational mosque (Jāmeh) in Tabrīz city built and repaired from Seljughiya to Qadjar era (11th till 19th century). It used to be the main mosque for the city of Tabriz and it still used for prays and some other religious ceremonies. It has a Shabistan with nice colorful windows.
12 Behnam House, Maqsoudieh St.. The edifice was built during the later part of the Zand dynasty (1750–1794) and the early part of the Qajar dynasty (1781–1925), as a residential house. During the reign of Nasereddin Shah Qajar (1848–1896) this building was substantially renovated and embellished with ornamental paintings. The house consists of a main building, referred to as the Winter Building, and a smaller structure, referred to as the Summer Building. The Winter Building is a two-story symmetrical construction standing on a basement. Like many traditional houses in Iran, this house has an inner (andaruni) and an outer (biruni) courtyard, the former being the larger of the two. In the course of a 2009 renovation project, some hitherto unknown miniature frescoes were discovered in this house which were restored by specialists. The Behnām House is part of the School of Architecture of Tabriz Art University. edit
13 Rob-e-Rashidi, Abbasi St. It is ruins and remnants of an educational and scientific complex was built 13th century when Tabriz was the capital of Ilkhanid dynasty. Scientists, physicians, writers, and poets from all around the Ilkhanid territories brought here to built a big dominant scientific complex. They had schools for teaching the latest scientific discoveries of the time. An encyclopedia calls Safina-yi Tabriz is also written here. The recovery of the complex and its renovation is incomplete and some other constructions are going on the site.
14 Gholestan Garden, Mohagheghi St.. This is a city center park built in 1930s. It is a good place to relax under the shadows of trees. edit
15 Tabriz Meuseum of Natural History, Azadi Blvd St. (A ten minutes walk from Abrassan Sq. toward Tuba Mosque). A museum of natural history with taxidermy samples from wild life of Iran and some other countries.
16 Tabriz Cartoon Museum, Mohaqeqi St.. A museum and gallery for caricature. There is also an annual international caricature competition held in here.
17 Shahriar Literary Museum, Shahriar Alley, off Southern Artesh Street. This is the house of a famous Iranian poet Shahriar in his last years. Shahriyar has poems in bothn Persian and Azeri languages. This is a simple Iranian 1970s style house, and its belonging kept the same way since Shahriyar's death in late 1980s. There is no explanations in English, however this house is interesting for Persian/Azerbaijani literature lovers. Free.
Canonical palace This beautiful palace was built approximately 60 years ago.
18 St. Mary Armenian Church and Museum (corner of North Shariati and Jomhoori Eslami streets). Hub of the Armenian community. Church and museum of the Armenian community of Tabriz. Previous church here was visited by Marco Polo in 1275 on his way to China. The tabernacle of the church was built in the style of Armenian architecture, parts of which can be dated back to the 12th century AD.

Ardabil is an ancient city in northwestern Iran, and the capital of Ardabil Province. Located in the northeastern part of Iran's historic Azerbaijan region, at the 2011 census, Ardabil's population was 564,365, in 156,324 families. The dominant majority in the city are ethnic Iranian Azerbaijanis and the primary language of the people is Azerbaijani.
Ardabil is known for its trade in silk and carpets. Ardabil rugs are renowned and the ancient Ardabil Carpets are considered among the best of classical Persian carpets. Ardabil is also home to a World Heritage Site, the Ardabil Shrine, the sanctuary and tomb of Shaikh Safî ad-Dîn, eponymous founder of the Safavid dynasty.
Sheikh Safi-od-Din Mausoleum : Western Iran’s most dazzling Safavid monument, and a World Heritage Site, the Sheikh Safi-od-Din Mausoleum is relatively compact. The patriarch is buried with lesser notables in an iconic 1334 Allah-Allah tower, so …
Pol-e Jajim : The seven-span Pol-e Jajim is the most famous of Ardabil's restored bridges across the Baliqli Chay (Fishy River).
Covered Bazaar : The covered bazaar is extensive and attractive, covering the triangle between Imam Khomeini and Beheshti Sts.
Pol-e Ebrahimabad : The most appealing of Ardabil's restored bridges is the cute three-arched Pol-e Ebrahimabad.
Sheik Jebra’il Shrine : Sheikh Jebra’il, Sheikh Safi-od-Din’s father, is buried beneath a mildly attractive 16th-century structure at Khalkhoran, a village-suburb 3km northeast of the centre. It’s an active shrine; remove your shoes before…
Jameh Mosque (Masjed-e Jameh) : The Mongol Ilkhanid Congregational (Friday) Mosque was once a truly gigantic brick edifice. It's built on the site of a Sassanian fire temple.
Mirza Ali Akbar Mosque : The attractively brick-vaulted Mirza Ali Akbar Mosque has a blue Kufic-tiled exterior frieze and a lighthouse-style minaret.
Haji Fakr Mosque : Stroll the back alleys to find the handsome little Haji Fakr Mosque with its squat, Bukharan-style pepper-mill minaret.
Anthroplogy Museum : Lifelike wax dummies in traditional Ardabil costume inhabit this restored Ilkhanid (Mongol)–era hammam.
Maryam Church :Just off Taleqani St, this Church of the Virgin Mary has an unusual old stone pyramid as its central dome.
Archaeology Museum: This small two-storey museum houses pottery, coins and other artifacts dating from pre-Islamic times.

Masal in the west of Gilan is known as a lost heaven between Iranian standing in high status of beauty that has not lost its attraction even in the sight of its residences. Masal located in Talesh Mountains that is within travelling of Rasht by only 50 km.
The language that is common between Masalian is Taleshi, and intensive agriculture & animal husbandry are the job of most Masalian because of its suitable nature. Masal can be the best option for eco-tourism because of its forest soaring, nature waterfalls, caves, wild life, pastures, and magnificent countryside. In the other hand, historical sights of Masal such as KOOL Castle, SHAHRGAH, a Cemetery belongs to Parthian in ASBEH RISEH, KHOON Valley, historical sights of KHANDILH POSHT, the countryside of DARAA, ELENZH, and the historical building of RAHIMI in BITEN SHANDERMAN and etc. are the other Spectacular part of Masal.
The city’s roof located 1 Km out of city is the magnificent part of the city in which provide a splendid perspective in front of your eyes that Parvaz Aram Abi recommends you not to miss seeing it.
Masal’s splendid waterfalls that can be seen in every parts of the city including the best waterfalls in Iran in which some of them are: VUZE waterfalls in the vicinity of ElENZEH resort in SHANDERMAN or KHOON waterfall with more than 15m, TAVALI waterfall, and RAMINEH with more than 10 meters and so on.
17 caves are detected in Masal in which the biggest & glorious one located 22 Km out of the city that called AVISHO with 15 Km heights and 30-50 cm corridors in which a river follows inside of it ending to several waterfalls. There are several Lime Qandils inside of the cave in which some of their heights reach to 1 m, this cave and the length of the cave is more than 1700 m and has only been available for professional cavers. The other caves like CHOSALI and KALCHAL are the other spectacular caves in Masal that have been available for public.

5 hours on the highway and we leave hot and dry Tehran for Iran’s wettest city; Rasht. Although not a huge city, Rasht has been playing a major role in Iranian history. It was Iran’s gateway to Russia and Europe and thus very influenced by western architecture. Iran’s first public library was built here and I’ve also heard it was the first city in Iran where girls were allowed to go to school.
The people of Rasht had a prominent influence on the radicalization of the Persian constitutional Revolution. They speak Gilaki, or Persian with a Gilaki accent and are considered one of the least religious Iranian ethnic groups.
What to do in Rasht?
Don’t expect some crazy attractions here. Rasht is all about wandering around its old streets and enjoying the atmosphere in the evening. Unlike many smaller Iranian cities, Rasht has great nightlife and you’ll see tons of people hanging out in the big squares by night time. Shahrdari square is the main square in Rasht with a few government buildings around it. It’s gorgeous and perfect for people watching. The bazaar is also close by and I’d highly recommend taking a stroll here and trying the fruits and pickles.
The best day trips from Rasht:
Rasht makes a great base point for off-road is day trips in the region. You could either choose to stay the night at your destination or come back to Rasht in the evening. Here are a few of my suggestions:
Masooleh: The famous stepped village is extremely popular with tourists. It’s beautiful but has become very commercialized over the past couple of years. Still worth it though.
Qal’eh Roodkhan: If you’re up for a hiking trip then walking up this fortress offers pristine and luscious views. I’ve written a dedicated post about it here: Trekking to Roudkhan castle
Olsebelangah village: If you’re looking for intact forests and panoramas out of heaven then the 2-3 hours drive to this village on high altitudes is definitely a go-go. Read my guide to visiting Olsebelangah here.
Seqalaksar: This lake in the middle of the misty forest is a perfect picnic spot to relax and chill. It’s very close to Rasht and can also be visited on your way back to Tehran.

Qazvin is one of the big cities in Iran and it is the capital of Qazvin province and Qazvin city. Qazvin was the capital of Iran at the time of Safavid, and therefore has many historic places and museums. The amazing architecture of Qazvin's water reservoirs, each with a separate and distinct plan, is rich in artistic decorations, making it the most important tourist attraction of Qazvin. This street was built by Shah Tahmasb Safavid in the northern neighborhood of the old city or Hesar Shapur, along with the construction of Jaffarabad, the mansion and houses on both sides of this street and the garden of Saadat Abad, and the government and harem and gardens of the eastern and western mansions. Sepeh Qazvin Street is known as the first urban space that has a different nature than fields and fields or organic passages, and is more like a direct and designed route for commuting. This axis was built during the Safavid period and during the capital city of Qazvin from the high Qapu valley to the approximate position in front of the mosque Jamea. Around the street there are a lot of ancient monuments such as several mosques, water storage, Aqap-Qapu and a Qajar-era hotel.

From ancient artefacts to modern art, Qurans to carpets, Tehran is home to the best of Iran's museums and galleries. And though it doesn't have the long, illustrious history of Isfahan or Shiraz, Tehran is where to discover more about Iran's 20th century upheavals, from the tarnished grandeur of the Pahlavi palaces to the countless fading murals in praise of Khomeini and the Iraq War martyrs.
But history also demands that life goes on. As Tehran's wealthy increasingly look west for cultural leads, ever-widening cultural divisions make walking the city streets a study in social distinctions.
Western brands stamp their mark on the wealthy north of the city with increasing swagger, while, in the south, the impressive, labyrinthine Bazar-e Bozorg (Big Bazaar) continues to heave in and dish out vast quantities of gold, silver, spices, carpets, textiles and Chinese-made consumer goods of dubious quality. Uptown girls let their headscarves drift back over boutique hairdos - a petty but pertinent sign that Islamic restrictions are not to everyone's taste. At the same time chador-wearing women make their own unmistakable statement.
Be sure though to take a Friday walk in Tehran's northern suburbs, where paths leading into the mountains are trod by one and all. In Darakeh, the sense of relief is tangible as Tehranis kick off their shoes to cool hiked-out feet in the cold mountain stream. At Tochal the cable car takes skiers to pistes no more than 30 minutes away from the centre of town.

Azadi Tower
This distinctively shaped arch is situated in the western part of Tehran near Mehrabat International Airport.
The word Azadi means national independence and it was completed in 1971 for the celebrations given by Mohammad Reza Shah to commemorate 2,500 years of Iranian Kings.
The 3 floor, 45m high monument is constructed from large 25,000 granite blocks from Hamedan province. Almost 15,000 differently shaped blocks were used to create the unique shape of the Azadi Tower.
Though modern in style, the design incorporates both pre and post-Islamic architectural styles. The 21m high archway is representative of the pre-Islamic Sassanid period while it is also pointed to represent hands raised in prayer.
Four elevators and two staircases (286 stairs) take you to the top of the tower from where you can see extensive views of Tehran. In the basement is a museum divided into two rooms.
The first contains pottery and glassware from prehistoric through to Islamic Iran as well as bronze artefacts dating back to the 1st and 2nd centuries BC excavated from Lurestan. The second room contains photographs and models depicted traditional life from different parts of Iran.

National Jewels Museum
Located in the basement of the National Bank of Iran on Ferdosi Avenue, in front of the embassies of Germany and Turkey, this is one of the best known museums in Iran. On display is an impressive collection of some of the most famous and spectacular jewels in the world including many priceless pieces.
Many pieces have disappeared over the years but the remaining collection of gemstones, jewellery, royal emblems, ornamental guns and jewel-encrusted furniture is still impressive. The majority of the items on display were given to Safavid kings as gifts but many pieces taken by Nader Shah on his conquest of India are also exhibited. These include the Darya-e Nur diamond, The Peacock Throne and the Jeweled Globe. Other pieces include the crowns of the Qajar and Pahlavi Kings.

Statue, National Museum of Iran, Tehran
Opened in 1937, the National Museum was Iran's very first museum. To this day it houses Irans foremost collection of archaeological and cultural treasures. The main entrance is on Tir Street but it can also be entered from Shahid ra Jai Street.
The museum was designed (and until 1960, also curated) by the French archaeologist and architect Andre Godard. The two-floor building was built to resemble the palace of Ardeshir I in Firuzabad and the red brick entranceway and dome are reminiscent of the Sassanid and Arsakid styles.
The main building houses a collection of artefacts from prehistoric Iran to the end of the Sassanid period, including pottery dating from before 1000BC, Elamite artefacts discovered at Susa and Chogha Zambil and a wealth of Achaemenid period decorations from Persepolis. A copy of the stela carved with Hammurabi's Laws serves as a reminder that the original, now in the Louvre, was discovered in Iran.
An extension built in 1997 houses treasures from the early years of the Islamic era to the present. At the heart of the collection are handwritten copies of the Holy Quran displayed in an atmosphere of quiet reverence and spirituality along with other complementary elements of a mosque, such as an altar prayer chamber.
Other handwritten books include the poetic works of Ferdowsi, Nezami Sadi and Hafez. The uppers floors of the building chart the flourishing of Iranian art in fields such as pottery, glassware, miniature painting, carpets, metal engravings and calligraphy.

The Golestan Palace in Tehran
Located on Khordad Square, the Golestan Palace ("Palace of Flowers") is a collection of buildings set in a walled park veined with canals rushing down from the Tochal mountains. It stands on the site of the historic Arg (citadel) of Tehran which was originally built in the time of Shah Abbas (r. 1588-1629) of the Safavid dynasty.
The Arg became the official royal residence when Agha Mohammad Khan Qajar moved the capital of Iran to Tehran and further palace buildings were constructed during the reign of Karim Khan Zand (r. 1750-1779). Buildings commissioned by Naser Al-din Shah (r. 1848-1896), such as the Shams-ol-Emaneh ("Edifice of the Sun") and the Emarat-e Badgir ("Building of the Wind Towers") show traces of a European architectural style that the modernising king was influenced by on his travels.
The splendour of the interiors of many of the buildings evokes a time when foreign dignitaries were invited to the Qajar court and compared its artistry to the royal buildings of Europe. Both the Eyvan-e Takht-e Marmar ("Terrace of the Marble Throne") and the Talar-e Aineh ("Hall of Mirrors") are famous for the spectacular mirror work that covers their walls.
Elsewhere can be seen fine examples of Iranian stained glass, mosaic tiles and painting. Several buildings house collections of paintings and gifts given to Qajar kings by European dignitaries as well as paintings by Iranian masters.
Though not all of the buildings are open to the public, the park itself is an oasis of calm in the heart of the city.
Jomeh Bazaar (Friday Market)
Tehran's Jomeh Bazaar (Friday Market) has a huge variety of bric-a-brac on display. The Friday Market is held on three floors of a multi-storey car park in central Tehran, on the east side of Joumbouri Avenue. The flea market is open every Friday from around 9am to 4pm.

Tree of Life Motif Carpet, Carpet Museum, Tehran
Not far from the Museum of Contemporary Art and also adjacent to Laleh Park, the Carpet Museum of Iran is one of the most rewarding to visit of Tehran's many museums. Most of the more than 100 carpets on display are from the 19th or 20th centuries but there are a handful of older specimens from as far back as the 16th century.
Photography is permitted though use of flash is not. Hunting and wildlife scenes show off the carpet makers art to the greatest extent.
Corner of Fatemi Street and Kargar Avenue; Admission fee
Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art - Laleh Park
On the west side the very lovely Laleh Park is a low-lying dun-brick building functioning as Tehran's most important museum of contemporary art.

Exhibit at the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art
In the construction itself you see something of the struggle in all Iranian art to reconcile the traditional with the modern. First notice the skylights raised from the roof. Reminiscent of the "badgirs" of Yazd or Kashan, these allow the harsh sun to softly light the central sunken well of inner space itself a modern interpretation of the cool underground havens of desert city residences.
Labyrinthine corridors spin off the central hall and guide you through the history of modern Iranian art. There are many fine pieces and some deep, absurdly comfortable armchairs from which to view them from.
Kargar Avenue; Admission fee
Reza Abbasi Museum - Shariati street
Saad Abad Palace Complex
Niavaran Palace Museum

Accommodation in Tehran
Tehran, as befits the capital of Iran is well served with accommodation options to suit all budgets from five star luxury properties to more budget small hotels.
Top of the range four and five hotels in Tehran include the Espinas Hotel, the Tehran Grand Hotel, with spa, sauna and in-house restaurant, the Ferdowsi International Grand Hotel offering flat-screen TV in all rooms and a restaurant, the Asareh Hotel with fitness center, sauna and free Wifi throughout and the Melal Apartment Hotel. The Tajmahal Hotel Tehran is another five star option with a fitness center, sauna, satellite TV and restaurant.
More budget hotels include the Iran Motel (breakfast included), the Sepand Hotel with airport shuttle, and the three star Karoon Hotel. The Hally Hotel is a 3 star business hotel with continental or buffet breakfast.